Showing posts with label Budapest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Budapest. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Spring has Sprung

Location: Budapest
Date: March 2011
Adventure #49

In addition to hearing the occasional bird chirping, being able to open my windows in the day, and seeing flower beds full of vibrant blossoms, signs of vernal happiness take another form in Budapest: the arrival of Budapest Spring Festival. As in years past, I wrote a feature for my magazine about the large-scale cultural event, which you can read by clicking here.

I was invited to attend the opening ceremony for the festival, which was held at the Museum of Ethnography - a stunningly ornate building built in the early 20th century for Hungary's Ministry of Justice. Anytime I get an invitation to go to that museum, I take it. Although it was hard to capture using just my Ipod, I took this picture of the lobby while a Gypsy musical group performed.

And yet another perk of reporting on the festival was that I was able to attend a flamenco dance version of Carmen - masterminded by Antonio Gades - a late, world-famous Spanish choreographer. Although I think it would have been much better with a live orchestra, the Spanish guitarists and flamenco dancers were exceptional. It solidified what I always suspected would be true: there is nothing more sultry than a vixen (clad in a red dress, naturally) seducing her man with flamenco flitting to Bizet's "L'amour est un oiseau rebelle" (Love is a rebellious bird) aria.

Friday, February 25, 2011

Literary hangovers, brought to you by Bukowski


Location: Budapest, VII District
Date: February 25, 2011
Adventure #47

It is another gray, snowy day in Budapest, yet I am quite content indoors. I just discovered Massolit, a lovely book store and cafe in Budapest that serves as a glorious Art Deco time warp with Wifi. With a black and white marble checked floor supporting sturdy wooden furniture, over-sized chairs that could hold two of me, and Ella Fitzgerald's finest tunes playing - I feel I have found another home away from home. So now, I am enjoying a delicious brownie and cappuccino and pausing from work.
This is a popular venue for my literati friends, with whom I have done many performances recently, including a "Write Like Bukowski" contest at a local dive bar. For those who don't know him, Charles Bukowski was a poet and author who lived in California and developed kind of a cult-following thanks to his rough, truthful prose and his reputation as the "laureate of American low-life." Given that he was a misogynistic alcoholic with a gambling addiction, writing in his style was a leap outside my creative comfort zone, which is why I welcomed the challenge to release my gritty side.

For the competition, winners could win a bottle of whiskey or a ham on rye sandwich (which happens to be the name of one of Bukowski's novels) for doing the best impression of the curmudgeon or writing most like him. My fellow Bukos were impressive, ranging from the gruff, drunk, explicit and love struck - and even included a participant who had met Bukowski multiple times in California. Although I didn't win any prizes against my unruly competition, I earned a lot of laughs from pieces like this where I tapped into Bukowski's pessimistic spirit with this true story:

Halloween

I stepped in dog crap while swaggering home from the bars on Halloween -

a typical Budapest plague -

so I left my boot outside my front door to clean in the morning.

The next day my German, middle-aged neighbor asked if I got any treats in my shoe,

thinking American Halloween is like St. Nicolas Day,

and I left my boot outside in hopes it would be filled with chocolate

for being such a good girl.

All I could say was

sometimes you get a treat,

but most the time you get tricks.


The next morning after my show, I smelled like I had just stepped out of an airport smoking lounge - even my poetry paper reeked of cigarettes - and my head hurt from drinking too much cheap beer. I think my poetic hangover was exactly what Bukowski would have wanted as a tribute.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Enjoying Communist Cuisine

Location: Budapest, VII District
Date: February 19, 2011
Adventure #46

For a Saturday lunchtime outing, my friends and I opted to head back in time via Kádár Étkezde - a Jewish/Hungarian restaurant in the heart of Budapest's VII District. This eatery has been more or less unchanged since Communist times and still draws a loyal lunch crowd. The cozy restaurant is composed of tightly packed tables with red and white checked table cloths protected by plastic covers.

Its wainscot walls are decorated with mismatched framed pictures of local celebrities, old maps and and hilariously timeworn signs, like this one that barely divides smokers from the non-smokers. (A wise Hungarian friend once told me that non-smoking sections in Budapest restaurants are like having designated non-peeing lanes in a swimming pool.)

Fortunately, I came to lunch with veterans of the establishment, because there are a few rules every patron should know Kadar's dining rituals:
- Each table has a bottle of seltzer water. Pour yourself glasses of water, but be sure to count them, because you are charged Ft 50 per glass (25 cents).
- You must also count how many pieces of bread you consume, because, like the water, you are charged per slice Ft 30 (10 cents).
- At the end of your meal, you must go to the front of the restaurant to pay the owner who is dressed in a white shirt and pants like a sanatorium worker. Precisely recite everything you ate down to the last piece of bread and glass of water, while he adds up the total on a slip of paper. If you seem to be underestimating your consumption, he will interrogate you.

I came to the restaurant specifically to try a traditional Hungarian meal of a goose leg and sólet, a Jewish bean stew. It was every bit as tasty as its reputation promised, and it made me pleased that I finally got to enjoy a Magyar institution. Plus, the fact that the owner didn't question my eating habits was a major boon.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Holiday Shopping Story

This month, I wrote my magazine's holiday shopping guide, framed around Budapest's best tourist sites. You can read the article by clicking here.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Slam and All That Jazz

Location: Gödör Klub, Budapest
June 30, 2010
Adventure #22

Last week I participated in a very ambitious creative collaboration. The event melded the words of slam poets from Budapest and Brooklyn (the New Yorkers were piped in via webcam), a modern improvisational dance troupe, and the jazz stars of the evening: Trio Midnight.

A few weeks ago, I was contacted by an enthusiastic, fast-rhyming Budapest poet who I had met at an event last year. I told him I was interested in slam poetry, so he emailed me and invited me to join this event.

For a quick background, slam poetry was created as a Chicago man's answer to a dull poetry reading. Tired of too much finger snapping and monotonous paeans, he proposed turning literary recitations into a performance-based competitions, and thus slam poetry was born. The rules of slam poetry events are fairly simple: poets must perform original work, their performance matters as much as the poem itself, no props are allowed and the recitation can not exceed three minutes or the offending poet's score will be penalized. Meanwhile, the audience is encouraged to vocalize their praises or censures, and after each poet performs, five audience judges score the performance on a scale of 1-10. After multiple rounds of poetry, which often take on social activism themes, the poet with the best score wins. As this movement blossomed throughout the 1990s and still goes strong today, it birthed a new genre of writer: the spoken word poet. I would describe this style as writers whose deliveries are nearly like hip-hop music without the instrumentation and who aim to entertain.

The event I performed in this week was not actually a poetry slam because there was no competition, but the performers all recited slam pieces, so it was a spoken-word show. On the week leading up to the event, I rehearsed with the other bards, dancers and Trio Midnight's bassist. Although I loved the actual event, the practicing and rehearsals were equally rewarding. I haven't been in a collaborative poetic environment where I exchanged feedback with other performers since I was co-chair of the University of Colorado's poetry club and a member of our slam team, the Melo poets. In the future, I hope to perform more with this slam group, although it's a challenge since most of their shows are for a strictly Hungarian-speaking audience.

On the night of the show, I was thrown by how big the audience was - probably at least a hundred people directly in front of the stage and more than a few hundred more outside. The venue, Gödör, is right in the heart of downtown Budapest where the three metro lines connect, so it's a favorite place to hang out, especially because it hosts concerts nearly every night, as well as art installations and exhibits, design fairs, plays, etc.

The show was held to honor the 20th anniversary of Trio Midnight, so they played a solo set and then we joined them on stage fittingly at midnight. Our act started with some improvisational jazz, and then the modern dance troupe grooved for a few minutes, and I was on stage next.



In poetry slams, the first poet who reads is called the sacrificial lamb, because it is always roughest spot - the judges haven't quite got their bearings and the crowd is not warmed up. Luckily, this event wasn't too bad, since there was no competition involved. And, although I couldn't see them because of the blinding pink stage lights in my eyes, I knew I had my little fan club in the back row, so that was all the support I needed (it is a sure sign that you have an amazing husband and friends if they are willing to stay up until 3am on a work night for you). I began one of my pieces called "Rise," and as soon as I said the first two lines, the jazz band started up behind me, mellifluously supplementing my poem with the subtle taps of brushes and slow melodies on the bass and piano. My words and their music flowed together so well, that it cinched my belief that jazz and poetry were meant to be married. After the first performance, I wasn't nervous any longer - I was just having fun. Here are my fellow poets and me awaiting our next turn at the mic:


After my whole group did one set, we paused and let the poets from Brooklyn perform, which was streamed through the Internet. Their stage lighting was so dim, and their performances were not very engaging because they read off the page, so I was a little disappointed. As Mike aptly described, the scene looked like a low-production hostage video, and the poets were reading their ransom notes.

The next set went really smoothly, and then all the poets did one last collaborative piece that was written by Muller Peter, a Hungarian alternative musician who was one of the founding fathers of Budapest's largest music festival, Sziget. He wrote a funny poem called "Czardas," which is a traditional Hungarian dance. We read lines in unison chanted the final lines about the dance - "two to the left and two to the right"- over and over until the dancers came back out and flitted for a few minutes. After the show, the owner of the club brought us champagne, and we all celebrated and sung happy birthday to Trio Midnight.

Friday, April 16, 2010

BINGO!

Location: Budapest
April 15, 2010
Adventure #11

Whether we were to conduct a bingo game for a group of Hungarian hipsters or the local elderly patrons who are our actual target audience, the most popular prizes would be the same: coffee and cigarettes.

Nearly every month since I moved to Budapest, I’ve helped the North American Women’s Association host a bingo game at a local nursing home. As a non-Hungarian speaker, my role is pretty simple. I help set up and distribute snacks and juice, then watch over a table or two to ensure the players don’t miss any numbers and confirm that winnersBingos are legit. Players get really into it, and I love hearing a seemingly reserved person yelp "Bingo," causing their competitors to let out equally loud groans.

Not only do I enjoy spending the time with the elderly and my American and Canadian cadre, the game has helped me learn my Hungarian numbers from 1-75 and how to correctly pronounce the names Bela, Illona, Nula, Gabor, and Olga, since our bilingual caller uses these names as a culturally relevant B-I-N-G-O substitutes.

Of course, the downfall of a volunteer project like this is that I can’t hold conversations with the volunterees because of the language barrier. However, this situation proves how far one can go with non-verbal communication, which was underscored when I recently tried to assist one of my favorite regulars in claiming his prize.

In addition to the always popular cigarettes and coffee (so coveted that we limit winners to one carton of cigarettes), the prizes include candy, some food items and lots of toiletries. Now this dour man who I was assisting is one of the most entertaining gamblers because he is an inveterate word worm who brings a newspaper to every game and reads as much as he can between each play so as not to reduce himself to talking to his peers. When someone else wins he scowls and opens his paper widerpretending to be too good to play Bingo anyhow. On this particular day, he ended up winning a round, so I asked him what prize he would like. Apparently he told medeodorant,” but since that word is at the bottom of my need-to-know Hungarian vocabulary hierarchy, I had no idea what he wanted. In response to my confused stare, this elderly gent raised his arm and mimicked rolling on some freshness over his flannel shirt. Naturally, this made me giggle, and I even provoked a rare smile from him.

Even though I can’t speak in complete sentences, at least I inspire a smile now and then, especially when I resort to cheating. There is nothing more disheartening than watching over a table for more than an hour where no one is winning and the people are getting frustrated. Thus, when it comes close to the end of our session and there are still some players who haven’t won, we signal to the caller to announce auspicious numbers that lead to a gleeful utterance ofBingo!” Yes, even fabricated Bingos sound as pleasing as orthodox ones.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Riding funiculars

Location: Budapest and Zagreb
March 2010
Adventure #7

In the time it takes to both wait for and ride Zagreb’s funicular, one could walk up and down the steps that flank the miniature train five times. But, in the lackadaisical logic of European vacations, this matters not. Over the last week, I had the gleeful opportunity to ride not one, but two funiculars in my dual home towns thanks to my guests who convinced me that, if given the option, always ride a funicular.

If you are an unfortunate soul who hasn't ridden a funicular or heard whispers of their tales, funiculars are inclined cable railways with tram-like cars that are usually used to tote tourists up to castles. This was the case for the funiculars I have ridden in Heidelberg, Ljubljana, and now Budapest and Zagreb. Apparently there is one in San Francisco, but all of my fun-incular adventures have been across the pond.

In Budapest, my cousins Laura and Brad and I decided to go crazy and spend the $4 needed to ride the funicular, which shuffles visitors from the castle district to the foot of the regal Chain Bridge that marries Buda and Pest. We sat in the first car and looked straight down at the 312-foot-drop – which almost gives you the "I’m about to plummet down the first steep drop of a roller coaster" feeling. Instead, the angle is just an affectation: it was slow and steady glide down the hill, leaving us at the bank of the Duna. Our peregrination was well worth it - another tourist activity to check off my list.

The Zagreb funicular was more comical. Its track is a mere 217 feet long and only operates every 10 minutes. The cute little line - which was built in 1893 - leaves something to be said for length of journey, but the ride only cost 80 cents. Upon exiting, you realize that it wasn’t just a smooth, lazy coast down a hillside: the car gambols, and certainly adds a little spring to its passengers' steps.